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On
this page, hopefully people will share their handy tips for getting out of trouble,
or even better avoiding getting there in the first place. One of the best has
to be this method of front fork seal removal, found on the web by Bob Ellis.
Remove spring, fill the fork with oil, screw back the top, and follow the method
as in picture!
Here's
a tip from Shane Leonard of Bristol (see his Cafe Racer on the photos page):
If anybody has fitted non-standard
silencers to their bike (i.e. straight-throughs, or replica BSA-type ones like
I've got on my XS caff-racer) & then had problems with an MoT tester, a
cheap & easy way of getting round the noise problem is to go to your local
VW stockist & buy a pair of baffles for a VW Beetle (mine cost about £2.50
for the pair). Then you shove 'em up the end of the downpipes, drill a hole
either side, cut off 2 lengths of threaded stud-bar (1 for each side), put a
slot in the top and screw them in. If Mr MoT tries sticking a broom up the silencer
it will meet resistance as the VW pipes are of a smaller diameter than the silencers.
Hey Presto, one valid MoT! I did this to mine as it failed the MoT on this first
time around; the added bonus for me was that now the pipes have a distinctive
'twitter' on the over-run, just like a pukka BSA - so now I've welded 'em in!
Steve
Cooper submitted this interesting tip:
Did you know that Volkswagen Beetle (air cooled type!) tappet adjusters are
supposed to fit XS650 rocker arms? Even better they have a screw-driver slot
in the top for easier adjustment!
Gordon
Littlejohn came up with this method of brake bleeding:
After struggling to bleed the dual
brakes with a trapped air bubble down in a caliper take out the front wheel
place on a bench as close as you can to the same height as the master cylinder.
Put the calipers on one disc & you can operate the lever and the now vertical
bleed nipples with ease. Also no forks and spokes in the way and the air is
naturally driven upwards rather than fighting it downwards
| Chris
Humphreys came accross this tip for rectifying loose clutch or brake levers: Take an old piece of ordinary drive chain and dismantle one link by driving out the roll pins so you end up with the parts in the pic (plus an M5 nut and bolt): |
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File out the lever to accept
the roller (10mm OD) so that it is a tight fit. Shorten the roller by
filing to fit in the handlebar part of the lever, install it in the lever.
Put the lever in the handlebar part, insert the rollpin where the bolt
goes and shorten by filing until just proud. Clean everything up and grease
pivot then assemble using a suitable M5 bolt and locknut, tighten fully. |
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